585 Gold: What the Stamp Means on Jewelry
Vazgen Martirosov
You take your ring off at the sink and, for the first time, you notice three tiny digits inside the band: 585. No word, no explanation, just a number that looks like the code to a very small locker. So what did you actually buy?
Quick answer: 585 gold is 14K gold. The number means the metal is 58.5% pure gold, and the other 41.5% is a mix of metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium that make it stronger. It is real, solid gold, and it is what we use for pieces like our round solitaire engagement ring and Tree of Life pendant. Below: how to read the stamp, what the letters beside it mean, and how to check that it is telling the truth.
What is 585 gold?
What is 585 gold? It is gold alloy that contains 585 parts of pure gold in every 1,000 parts of metal. That number is called fineness. Divide it by 10 and you have the percentage: 585 becomes 58.5%.
Karat says the same thing in a different language. Karat counts in 24 parts, so 14K means 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals. Europe and much of the world use the three-digit number. The United States tends to prefer the K. A piece stamped 585 and a piece stamped 14K have the same gold content.
| Number stamp | Karat | Pure gold |
|---|---|---|
| 375 | 9K | 37.5% |
| 417 | 10K | 41.7% |
| 585 | 14K | 58.5% |
| 750 | 18K | 75% |
| 916 | 22K | 91.6% |
| 999 | 24K | 99.9% |
Want the full list, from 333 up to 999.9? We put every number in our gold number code chart.
What does 585 mean on jewelry?
What does 585 mean on jewelry? It tells you how much of the piece is pure gold by weight. If a chain weighs 10 grams and is stamped 585, it holds about 5.85 grams of pure gold. The stamp says nothing about the diamonds, the design or who made it. It is only about the metal.
Why 585 and not 583?
Here is a small puzzle. 14 divided by 24 is 58.33%, not 58.5%. According to the World Gold Council, the exact figure for 14 karat is .583, but most manufacturers use .585, which sits slightly above it. The extra margin helps a piece stay at or above 14 karat.
You may still see 583 on older jewelry, including pieces from the Soviet era. If it came from your grandmother's jewelry box, do not panic. The difference between 583 and 585 is two parts in a thousand, which you will never see or feel.
Is 585 real gold?
Yes. 585 is solid gold, not plating. It just is not pure gold, and that is the point. Pure gold is too soft for a ring you plan to wear for 40 years, so jewellers add harder metals to it. Those other metals are not a trick. They are the reason the prongs keep holding your diamond.
One warning. A number alone is not proof. If a 585 gold stamp is followed by letters like GP or HGE, the piece is plated, and only the thin surface layer is gold. That brings us to the small print.
Where to find the 585 gold stamp
Stamps are tiny, so use good light and your phone's camera zoom, or a jeweller's loupe if you have one. Here is where to look first:
- Rings: inside the band, usually at the bottom.
- Necklaces and bracelets: on the clasp or on a small tag next to it.
- Pendants: on the bail, the small loop the chain passes through, or on the back.
- Earrings: on the post or the back of the piece.
Rings that have been resized many times can lose their stamp, and handmade antique pieces may never have had one. No stamp does not mean fake. It just means you need a test.
Letter markings on gold jewelry
The numbers tell you the purity. The letter markings on gold jewelry tell you everything else, and a few of them change the meaning completely.
| Marking | What it means | Solid gold? |
|---|---|---|
| K, KT, CT | Karat, as in 14K or 14KT | Yes |
| YG, WG, RG | Yellow, white or rose gold | Yes |
| GP | Gold plated | No |
| GEP, HGE | Gold electroplate, heavy gold electroplate | No |
| RGP | Rolled gold plate | No |
| GF | Gold filled, a thicker layer bonded to a base metal | No |
| 925 | Sterling silver, not gold at all | No |
| PT, PLAT | Platinum | Not gold |
The US rules behind plated terms are public: the FTC Jewelry Guides say gold filled pieces must carry at least 1/20 of their metal weight as gold plating, and they treat 'gold plate' and 'gold electroplate' as coatings, not solid metal.
You may also see a country, as in '585 Italy'. That tells you where the piece was made, not how pure it is. Other small symbols are often the maker's own mark.
Yellow, white and rose: is it all 585?
Yes. White gold can be just as much 585 gold as yellow gold. The gold content stays at 58.5%. Only the other 41.5% changes, and that is what changes the colour.
| Colour | What is mixed in | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow gold | Silver and copper | Warm, classic colour |
| White gold | Palladium or silver | Often rhodium plated for a brighter surface |
| Rose gold | More copper | Copper gives the pink tone |
Still deciding? We compared the two main options in white gold vs yellow gold.
585 vs 750 gold: which should you choose?
This is the choice most buyers actually face. 750 gold (18K) holds more gold and has a richer colour. 585 gold (14K) costs less and takes daily knocks better, because more of it is harder metal. For a ring you never take off, many people choose 585. For a piece you want to look deep and warm, many choose 750.
We go through it properly in 14K vs 18K gold, including how each one wears over time.
How to check that a 585 stamp is genuine
Anyone can buy a stamp. So what does 585 on jewelry mean if nobody checked it? Not much. That is why the most trustworthy marks come from an independent test.
- Look at the marks. In the UK, for example, a full hallmark includes a sponsor's mark, a fineness mark and an assay office mark, so you can see who tested it.
- Look for a maker's name. The FTC advises US shoppers to look for a name or trademark near the karat mark.
- Check the edges. A different colour showing at the clasp or other worn spots suggests plating.
- Ask for a test. A jeweller's acid test, an XRF scan or an assay office will give you a real answer.
We wrote a full walk-through of the safe tests, and the ones to skip, in how to tell if gold is real.
How much is 585 gold worth?
For the metal alone, the sum is short:
weight in grams × 0.585 × today's gold price per gram
That gives you the melt value, and the price moves every day, so we do not print a number here. A finished piece usually sells for more than its melt value, because you are also paying for stones, design and the hours at the bench.
The 585 gold we use at GH Jewells
We have been making jewelry in Yerevan since 2010, and most of our pieces are made in 14K. Our half eternity ring and Family Pendant Necklace are both 14K, and every piece is handmade to order. If you would rather have a richer 18K, our fine gold chain is made in it, and we can make a custom piece in the karat you choose.
You never have to take our word for it, either. You are welcome to have any of our pieces tested at an assay office. Read more in our story.
Frequently asked questions
Is 585 the same as 14K gold?
Yes. 585 and 14K describe the same purity, about 58.5% pure gold. They are simply two ways of writing it, and a piece can carry either stamp or both.
Is 585 gold good quality?
Yes. It is one of the most popular choices for fine jewelry because it balances real gold content with strength. It suits rings and bracelets that see daily wear.
Does 585 gold tarnish?
Solid 585 gold keeps its colour well, though lotion, perfume and skin oils can leave a dull film. Warm water and mild soap usually clear it. If the colour wears away to a different metal, the piece was probably plated.
Can you wear 585 gold in the shower?
It will not harm solid gold, but soap can build up and dull the shine, especially around diamonds. It is better to take rings off and give them a gentle clean from time to time.
Why does my ring say 585 and not 14K?
Three-digit numbers are the usual way of marking gold in Europe and many other regions, while the K is common in the United States. Both tell you the same thing about the metal.
Is 585 white gold real gold?
Yes. White 585 gold has the same 58.5% gold as yellow 585 gold. The rest is a white metal mix, and many pieces are also rhodium plated for extra brightness.
Back to the sink
So those three tiny digits were not a locker code after all. 585 gold is 14K, 58.5% pure and strong enough to go through real life with you. Check the letters beside it, ask for a test if something feels off, and put the ring back on. It has work to do.
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